Agarwood oil, Vietnamese (CAS 958663-49-5) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Agarwood oil, Vietnamese
CAS 958663-49-5
What Is Agarwood oil, Vietnamese?
Vietnamese agarwood oil is a rare and precious ingredient derived from the resinous heartwood of Aquilaria trees infected with mold. People encounter it in luxury perfumes, incense, and traditional medicines. This oil matters because it’s one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery, valued for its complex, mystical aroma that has been treasured in Asian cultures for centuries.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Agarwood oil, Vietnamese Smell Like?
Vietnamese agarwood oil unfolds with an intoxicatingly rich, woody-balsamic core wrapped in smoky leather nuances. The opening carries faint medicinal hints that quickly transform into a velvety heart of aged wood and sweet spices. As it dries down, it reveals profound resinous depths with whispers of tobacco, dried fruits, and an almost mystical animalic warmth. The scent evolves like incense in a temple – starting sharp, then softening into a meditative aura that lingers for hours with incredible tenacity.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
This luxurious composition showcases Vietnamese agarwood’s smoky richness, paired with rose and saffron to create an opulent Middle Eastern-inspired fragrance that lasts exceptionally well on skin.
Uses Vietnamese agarwood as the precious centerpiece, blending it with citrus and pink pepper for a modern take on classic woody fragrances with exceptional projection.
Features Vietnamese agarwood in a sophisticated Western interpretation, softened with cardamom and vanilla to make the challenging oud note more wearable.
Pioneering use of Vietnamese agarwood in mainstream perfumery, combined with mandarin and myrrh for a daring masculine statement.
Amplifies Vietnamese agarwood’s animalic facets with rose and musk for an intense, long-lasting fragrance experience.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Vietnamese agarwood oil is a complex mixture of sesquiterpenes and aromatic compounds formed as a defense mechanism in Aquilaria trees. The prized resin contains over 150 identified compounds including agarospirol, jinkoh-eremol, and various sesquiterpene alcohols. The specific composition varies dramatically based on the tree’s age, infection strain, and extraction method. Traditional hydrodistillation yields about 0.5-2% oil from the resinous wood, with the highest quality oils coming from trees aged 50+ years. Modern CO2 extraction can preserve more delicate top notes but lacks the characteristic smoky depth of traditionally processed oils.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous dark brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Odor Strength | Very powerful |
| Solubility | Soluble in ethanol, fixed oils; insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Used sparingly due to potency |
| Incense | 5-10% | Up to 20% | Traditional religious use |
| Luxury Candles | 1-3% | Up to 5% | Provides depth and longevity |
Classic Accords
Tip: Always pre-dilute to 10% in ethanol before blending to better control this powerful material.
Alternatives & Comparisons
More consistent and affordable alternative when the natural oil’s complexity isn’t required, though lacks depth.
Similar profile but generally less smoky and more floral, often used as a substitute when cost is a factor.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No IFRA restrictions currently apply to agarwood oil, though it’s recommended to use at moderate levels due to potential sensitization concerns.
EU Allergen Declaration
Not listed in EU allergen regulations.
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM has evaluated agarwood oil and recommends a maximum dermal use level of 0.5% based on skin sensitization potential.
Sustainability
Vietnamese agarwood is critically endangered due to overharvesting and habitat loss. Ethical sourcing is paramount – look for CITES-certified suppliers using cultivated trees inoculated with controlled mold strains. Synthetic alternatives are increasingly important for conservation, though they can’t fully replicate the natural oil’s complexity. Sustainable plantation projects in Vietnam are helping protect wild populations while meeting demand.
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References
- Naef R. (2011). The volatile and semi-volatile constituents of agarwood. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. DOI:10.1002/ffj.2034
- CITES. (2021). Aquilaria species conservation status report. CITES Official
- Chen et al. (2012). Chemical constituents of agarwood originating from Vietnam. Natural Product Communications. PMID 22545400
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 958663-49-5Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
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