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CLASSIC ACCORD
The Fougère Accord — Perfumery’s Foundation
The Fougère (French for ‘fern’) is arguably the most important accord in modern perfumery — the backbone of men’s fragrances for over 140 years. Created by Paul Parquet for Houbigant’s Fougère Royale (1882), this accord was the first to use a synthetic ingredient (coumarin) as a structural element. The combination of lavender, coumarin, and oakmoss creates a clean, herbaceous, slightly sweet character that remains the template for countless modern fragrances.
Accord Structure
Core Triangle
- Lavender — The aromatic top, providing freshness and herbal clarity
- Coumarin — The sweet bridge, adding hay-like warmth and powdery smoothness
- Oakmoss — The earthy base (now often replaced due to IFRA restrictions), grounding the composition
Modern Extensions
- Geranium — Adds rosy-green facets, bridges lavender to the heart
- Tonka bean — Natural coumarin source, adds tobacco and vanilla nuances
- Vetiver — Smoky-earthy depth as oakmoss alternative
- Dihydrocoumarin / Ethyl vanillin — Synthetic alternatives for stronger projection
Key Ingredients in Our Database (34)
Bergamot Oil
Cedarwood Oil Atlas
Cedarwood Oil Virginia
Coumarin
d-Linalool
Dihydrocoumarin
Dihydrojasmone
Dihydrolinalool
Dihydromyrcenol
Ethyl linalool
Geraniol
Indane Musk (Phantolide)
l-Linalool
Lavender
Linalool
Linalyl Acetate
Methyl dihydrojasmonate HC
Musk
Musk
Musk Ketone
Oakmoss Absolute
Patchouli Alcohol
Patchouli Oil
Patchouli Oil
Thiogeraniol
Tonka
Tonka Bean Absolute
Vanillin
Vetiver Oil
Vetiverol
Vetiverol
Vetiveryl Acetate
White Musk
White Musk
