Armoise vulgaris oil (CAS 68991-20-8) — Green Middle Note Fragrance Ingredient

Green · Woody

Armoise vulgaris oil

CAS 68991-20-8

Origin
natural
Note
Middle
IFRA
Use with awareness
Data as of: Apr 2026

What Is Armoise vulgaris oil?

Armoise vulgaris oil, commonly known as mugwort oil, is extracted from the Artemisia vulgaris plant. People encounter it in herbal remedies, aromatherapy, and some niche perfumes. This oil matters for its unique herbal-green aroma with subtle bitter undertones, often used to create mystical or earthy fragrance profiles.

Safety Profile

USE WITH AWARENESS
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
Potential skin sensitizer
Avoid during pregnancy
CAS
68991-20-8
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Green · Woody
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Armoise vulgaris oil Smell Like?

Armoise vulgaris oil opens with a sharp, herbaceous punch reminiscent of crushed green leaves and damp earth. The heart reveals a complex interplay of bitter wormwood, faintly camphoraceous tones, and a whisper of dried hay. As it dries down, it leaves a lingering medicinal-green aura with a touch of smokiness, evoking ancient herbal remedies and wild meadows.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Used for its dry, herbal character that enhances the fragrance’s desert wind illusion, blending with spices and amber to create an arid, mystical atmosphere.

Eau d'Hermès(Hermès, 1951)

Provides a bitter-green counterpoint to the citrus top notes, adding depth and an unconventional herbal twist to this classic cologne structure.

Layer 2

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Armoise vulgaris oil is a complex mixture of monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes. Key components include camphor, 1,8-cineole, and α-thujone. The oil is obtained through steam distillation of the flowering tops and leaves. Thujone content varies significantly by growing region and harvest time, contributing to its regulatory status in some markets.

Physical & Chemical Properties

AppearancePale yellow to greenish liquid
Density0.89-0.92 g/cm³
Refractive Index1.460-1.480

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Middle
Volatility
Medium (2-4 hours)
Blending
Good with woods and spices
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Fine Fragrance0.5-2%Up to 5%Used sparingly for herbal complexity
Aromatherapy1-3%Up to 10%Diluted in carrier oils

Classic Accords

+ Patchouli + Vetiver = Dark herbal + Lavender + Oakmoss = Vintage fougère

Tip: Use in trace amounts to add intriguing bitterness to green or woody compositions.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Artemisia absinthium oil CAS 8008-93-3

More intense wormwood character with higher thujone content, for when a stronger bitter note is desired.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.

IFRA Status

No specific IFRA restrictions. General guidelines for Artemisia oils apply regarding thujone content.

EU Allergen Declaration

Not listed as EU allergen but contains potential sensitizers.

GHS Classification

H302 Harmful if swallowed H315 Skin irritation

RIFM Assessment

RIFM has evaluated related Artemisia species but specific data on A. vulgaris oil is limited.

Sustainability

Wild harvesting concerns exist in some regions. Sustainable cultivation is increasing in Europe and North America. Steam distillation is energy-intensive but produces minimal waste compared to solvent extraction methods.

Explore Armoise vulgaris oil

Browse essential oils and aroma compounds.

Browse on iHerb →

Affiliate disclosure: we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

References

  1. Lopes-Lutz et al. (2008). Chemical composition and antibacterial activity of Artemisia oils. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. DOI: 10.1021/jf073363h

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.

Report a data error

Ingredient Data Sheet

CAS 68991-20-8
Data Sources & Attribution
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.

Similar Posts