Azelaic Acid (CAS 123-99-9) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient

neutral

Azelaic Acid

CAS 123-99-9

Origin
natural
Note
IFRA
Generally safe
Data as of: Mar 2026

What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in wheat, rye, and barley. It’s commonly used in skincare for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. While not typically used for fragrance, it appears in some functional perfumes where skin benefits are desired alongside scent.

Safety Profile

GENERALLY SAFE
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
Approved for cosmetic use
Non-toxic at typical concentrations
CAS
123-99-9
Formula
C9H16O4
MW
188.22
Odor Family
neutral
Azelaic Acid 2D structure
Azelaic Acid
C9H16O4
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Azelaic Acid Smell Like?

Azelaic acid is nearly odorless, making it unique among fragrance ingredients. Its neutral scent profile allows it to be used as a functional carrier or base in formulations where active skincare benefits are desired without interfering with the fragrance composition. In high purity, it may exhibit a faint waxy, fatty character reminiscent of candle wax or unscented soap.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Used in medicated or therapeutic fragrances where skin benefits are desired. Its odor neutrality makes it ideal for carrying active ingredients without scent interference.

Layer 2

2D Molecular Structure

Nonanedioic acid

SMILES: OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Azelaic acid (nonanedioic acid) is a saturated dicarboxylic acid with a straight-chain structure. Naturally produced by Malassezia furfur yeast, it can also be synthesized through ozonolysis of oleic acid. The industrial process typically involves nitric acid oxidation of oleic acid. As a C9 dicarboxylic acid, it bridges the gap between shorter chain acids (like adipic) and longer chain acids (like sebacic). The molecule lacks chiral centers, existing as a single stereoisomer.

Physical & Chemical Properties

Boiling Point286.5 °C at 100 mmHg
Melting Point106.5 °C
Flash Point210 °C (closed cup)
Density1.225 g/cm³ at 25 °C
Vapor Pressure0.00000001 mmHg
Refractive Index1.4303 at 111 °C
Solubility2400 mg/L at 20 °C
AppearanceMonoclinic prismatic needles

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Base
Volatility
Very low
Blending
Neutral carrier
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Functional Fragrances1-5%Up to 10%As active carrier base
Skincare Perfumes0.5-3%Up to 5%For therapeutic benefits

Classic Accords

+ Niacinamide + Zinc = Medicated base + Allantoin = Soothing complex

Tip: Use as a neutral base for active ingredients in functional perfumery where scent interference must be minimized.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Adipic Acid CAS 124-04-9

Shorter chain dicarboxylic acid with similar neutral properties but higher solubility.

2
Sebacic Acid CAS 111-20-6

Longer chain alternative with slightly more waxy character.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.

IFRA Status

No IFRA restrictions. Not classified as a fragrance allergen.

RIFM Assessment

RIFM considers azelaic acid safe for use in fragrances at current levels.

Sustainability

Azelaic acid can be sourced sustainably from cereal grains or produced through green chemistry approaches. The synthetic route from oleic acid (derived from vegetable oils) offers consistent quality and reduces agricultural land use compared to direct plant extraction. Biodegradable and non-persistent in the environment.

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References

  1. PubChem Compound Summary for CID 2266 PubChem 2266
  2. Breathnach A.S. (1996). Azelaic acid: potential as a general antitumoural agent. Medical Hypotheses. PMID 8676762

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.

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Physicochemical Properties

DTXSID: DTXSID8021640

Physical Properties

Molecular Weight 188.223 g/mol🔬 EPA CompTox
Density 1.16 g/cm^3🔬 EPA CTX
Boiling Point 317.067 °C🔬 EPA CTX
Melting Point 109.108 °C🔬 EPA CTX
Flash Point 200.567 °C🔬 EPA CTX
Refractive Index 1.475 Dimensionless📊 OPERA
Molar Volume 166.348 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA

Partition & Solubility

LogP (Octanol-Water) 1.57 Log10 unitless🔬 EPA CTX
LogD (pH 5.5) -0.023 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogD (pH 7.4) -2.477 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogKoa (Octanol-Air) 7.93 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
Water Solubility 0.013 mol/L🔬 EPA CTX
Henry's Law Constant 0 atm-m3/mole🔬 EPA CTX

Transport Properties

Vapor Pressure 0 mmHg🔬 EPA CTX
Viscosity 15.261 cP📊 OPERA
Surface Tension 41.209 dyn/cm📊 OPERA
Thermal Conductivity 161.126 mW/(m*K)📊 OPERA

Molecular Descriptors

Topological Polar Surface Area 74.6 Ų💻 Computed
H-Bond Donors 2 count💻 Computed
H-Bond Acceptors 2 count💻 Computed
Rotatable Bonds 8 count💻 Computed
Aromatic Rings 0 count💻 Computed
Molar Refractivity 46.874 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA
Polarizability 18.582 Å^3📊 OPERA

Data Sources:

🔬 EPA Experimental data from U.S. EPA CompTox Chemicals Dashboard & CTX APIs. 📊 OPERA Predicted using EPA's OPERA QSAR models. 💻 Computed Calculated from SMILES using RDKit.

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