Gentian absolute (CAS 97676-22-7) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Gentian absolute
CAS 97676-22-7
What Is Gentian absolute?
Gentian absolute is a rare botanical extract derived from the roots of gentian plants, primarily encountered in niche perfumery and high-end botanical skincare. Its earthy, bitter character makes it a distinctive note in fragrances seeking a natural, rooty complexity. This ingredient matters because it provides perfumers with an authentic connection to alpine terroirs, offering a dry, woody-herbal profile that cannot be easily replicated with synthetic materials.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFEWhat Does Gentian absolute Smell Like?
Gentian absolute unfolds with an intensely earthy, rooty aroma reminiscent of damp forest soil and dried medicinal herbs. The opening carries a sharp, almost quinine-like bitterness that gradually mellows into a dry, woody heart with subtle floral undertones. As it dries down, it reveals a leathery, slightly smoky character that lingers close to the skin. The overall effect is like walking through an alpine meadow after rain—mineralic, vegetal, and hauntingly natural.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Used for its dry, rooty bitterness that contrasts beautifully with citrus top notes, adding depth to this classic cologne structure.
Gentian absolute provides an authentic alpine terroir note, evoking the scent of high-altitude meadows and mountain herbs.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Gentian absolute is obtained through solvent extraction of Gentiana lutea roots, containing complex mixtures of secoiridoid glycosides and xanthones. These bitter principles (including gentiopicroside and amarogentin) contribute to its characteristic aroma. The extraction process preserves the plant’s secondary metabolites better than steam distillation, resulting in a richer olfactory profile. Chirality plays a role in its bitter taste perception, with (S)-enantiomers being more potent.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Dark viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Used as earthy modifier |
| Botanical Skincare | 0.01-0.1% | Trace amounts | For aromatic properties |
Classic Accords
Tip: Balance gentian’s bitterness with sweet materials like tonka or honey notes to create intriguing contrasts.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Offers similar earthy-rooty characteristics but with more pronounced herbal and celery-like facets.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No IFRA restrictions. Not evaluated under current standards.
RIFM Assessment
Not formally assessed by RIFM due to low production volumes.
Sustainability
Gentian absolute is sustainably wild-harvested in alpine regions, with strict quotas to prevent over-collection. The slow-growing nature of Gentiana lutea (taking up to 10 years to mature) makes cultivation challenging. Solvent extraction yields are low (0.1-0.3%), requiring significant plant material per kilo of absolute.
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References
- European Medicines Agency (2016). Assessment report on Gentiana lutea L., radix. EMA Report
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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