Agarwood extract (CAS 94350-09-01) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Agarwood extract
CAS 94350-09-01
What Is Agarwood extract?
Agarwood extract comes from the resinous heartwood of Aquilaria trees, primarily found in Southeast Asia. It’s used in luxury perfumes, incense, and traditional medicines. The resin forms when trees are infected by mold, creating a rare and valuable material. This ingredient matters because it produces one of the most coveted woody scents in perfumery, often called ‘oud’. Its rarity and complex aroma profile make it a prized component in high-end fragrances.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Agarwood extract Smell Like?
Agarwood extract delivers an intensely rich, woody aroma with profound depth. The opening is slightly medicinal with hints of fermented leather and damp earth, evolving into a heart of sweet balsamic warmth with smoky undertones. The dry-down reveals a luxurious, velvety woodiness with animalic nuances and a lingering incense-like quality. Its scent profile is both ancient and sophisticated, like polished antique wood infused with rare spices and aged wine.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Showcases agarwood’s refined woody character blended with cardamom and sandalwood, creating a modern interpretation of traditional oud perfumes.
Pioneered Western oud usage with a bold medicinal opening that softens into warm woody amber.
Intense rose-oud pairing where agarwood provides deep woody structure to the floral heart.
Highlights agarwood’s smoky facets with patchouli and rose for a Middle Eastern-inspired composition.
Softens agarwood’s roughness with violet and vanilla for a wearable interpretation.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Agarwood’s complex chemistry contains over 150 identified compounds, primarily sesquiterpenes and chromones. The key odorants include agarospirol, dihydrokaranone, and various oxygenated sesquiterpenes. Natural formation involves fungal infection triggering resin production in Aquilaria trees. Extraction typically uses hydrodistillation or solvent methods. The composition varies significantly by geographic origin and tree age, making standardization challenging. Synthetic alternatives attempt to recreate the core woody-balsamic profile.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Dark viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-1% | Up to 3% | Used sparingly due to intensity |
| Incense | 5-15% | Up to 20% | Traditional use in religious contexts |
| Home Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Provides depth to woody accords |
Classic Accords
Tip: Balance agarwood’s intensity with bright top notes and creamy base materials to prevent overpowering compositions.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Recreates key woody aspects without natural variability, suitable for consistent formulations.
Offers similar smoky wood notes at lower cost, though less complex.
Provides woody-ambery facets with better solubility in alcohol bases.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No specific IFRA restrictions. General guidelines apply for potential sensitizers.
EU Allergen Declaration
Not currently listed as an EU allergen.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM has evaluated several agarwood components but no comprehensive assessment exists for the full extract.
Sustainability
Wild agarwood is CITES-listed due to overharvesting. Sustainable cultivation projects now produce most commercial material through controlled fungal inoculation. Synthetic alternatives reduce pressure on natural resources but lack the full complexity of genuine oud. Ethical sourcing verification is crucial given the ingredient’s high value.
Explore Agarwood extract
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References
- Naef R. (2011). The volatile and semi-volatile constituents of agarwood. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. DOI:10.1002/ffj.2034
- Chen H. et al. (2012). Chemical constituents of agarwood originating from Aquilaria species. Natural Product Reports. DOI:10.1039/C2NP00021D
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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