Exaltolide (CAS 0106-02-05) — Musky Top Note Fragrance Ingredient
Exaltolide
CAS 0106-02-05
What Is Exaltolide?
Exaltolide is a synthetic musk used in perfumery to add depth and longevity to fragrances. Consumers encounter it in high-end perfumes, body lotions, and fabric softeners where it provides a clean, musky foundation. This ingredient matters because it mimics rare animal musks without ethical concerns, offering perfumers a sustainable alternative that performs similarly in scent diffusion and skin adherence.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFE
What Does Exaltolide Smell Like?
Exaltolide opens with a crisp, laundry-clean musk reminiscent of sun-dried cotton sheets, gradually revealing creamy lactonic undertones like warm skin after moisturizing. Unlike animalic musks, it maintains a polished sophistication—imagine the olfactory equivalent of a starched white shirt with a hint of body warmth. The dry-down is remarkably persistent, leaving a soft sillage that reads as freshly showered elegance rather than overt muskiness. Its subtle powdery character makes it ideal for modern fragrances seeking musk complexity without heaviness.
Scent Profile
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Exaltolide provides the clean musk counterpoint to the fragrance’s animalic base, creating tension between civet-like rawness and shampoo-fresh modernity.
Used as the primary musk to create that addictive ‘your skin but better’ effect, blending with ambroxan for contemporary minimalism.
Exaltolide’s powdery facets amplify the floral musks, giving the signature ‘white cube’ aesthetic its lasting fabric-softener sophistication.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Exaltolide belongs to the macrocyclic lactone class, structurally featuring a 15-membered ring with one ester group. Unlike traditional nitro musks, its safety profile makes it preferable in modern formulations. Synthesized via ring-closing metathesis or lactonization of ω-hydroxy acids, its production avoids the environmental persistence issues of polycyclic musks. The molecule’s large ring structure contributes to its low volatility and excellent substantivity on skin. Chirality isn’t a major factor as commercial Exaltolide is typically racemic, though enantiopure forms can exhibit subtle odor differences.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | White crystalline powder |
|---|---|
| Melting Point | 38-42 °C |
| Flash Point | >100 °C |
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 1-3% | Up to 5% | Foundation for musk accords |
| Detergents | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Provides lasting freshness |
| Body Care | 0.5-2% | Up to 3% | Skin-adherent musk effect |
Classic Accords
+ Galaxolide + Ethylene Brassylate = Laundry Musk
+ Cashmeran + Sandalore = Textured Skin Scent
Tip: Use Exaltolide to ‘lift’ heavier musks—it prevents compositions from becoming flat or dull during dry-down.
Alternatives & Comparisons
More affordable with similar musk character but lacks Exaltolide’s lactonic richness. Preferred for mass-market applications.
Animalic alternative with greater diffusion power, used when more sensual musk effects are desired.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.
IFRA Status
No restrictions under IFRA 49th Amendment. Classified as non-sensitizing in current risk assessments.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM evaluation confirms safe use up to 3.9% in fine fragrance based on repeated insult patch testing.
Sustainability
As a synthetic musk, Exaltolide avoids the ecological impact of harvesting natural musk deer glands. Its production doesn’t generate halogenated byproducts like some polycyclic musks. Recent life cycle analyses show lower aquatic toxicity than older musks, though biodegradability remains moderate. Sourcing is petroleum-based but requires less energy input than nitro musk synthesis.
Explore Exaltolide
Browse essential oils and aroma compounds.
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Industry & Science Data
References
- IFRA Standards (2021). 49th Amendment. IFRA
- Bickers et al. (2003). Musk xylene and musk ketone safety evaluation. PMID 12608819
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.
