Isoeugenol (trans) (CAS 97-54-1) — Spicy Heart Note Fragrance Ingredient

Spicy

Isoeugenol (trans)

CAS 97-54-1

Origin
Synthetic
Note
Heart
IFRA
Use with awareness
Data as of: Mar 2026

What Is Isoeugenol (trans)?

Isoeugenol is a warm, clove-like aromatic found in perfumes, soaps, and candles. It’s the synthetic version of a compound naturally present in ylang-ylang and nutmeg. This ingredient adds a spicy depth to fragrances, often blending with florals to create rich oriental accords. Its ability to evoke both natural warmth and sophisticated spice makes it a perfumer’s favorite for adding complexity.

Safety Profile

USE WITH AWARENESS
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
Allowed in cosmetics with restrictions
EU allergen – requires labeling
Limited to 0.02% in leave-on products
CAS
97-54-1
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Spicy
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Isoeugenol (trans) Smell Like?

Isoeugenol unfolds with an intense clove-like punch – warm, slightly medicinal, and deeply aromatic. The initial sharpness mellows into a velvety sweet-spice character reminiscent of carnations and aged pipe tobacco. As a heart note, it demonstrates remarkable tenacity, gradually revealing woody-ambery facets that blend seamlessly with florals. The dry-down leaves a faint balsamic trail with hints of vanilla, making it particularly valuable in oriental compositions where it acts as both a bridge and fixative.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Opium(Yves Saint Laurent, 1977)

Isoeugenol provides the spicy clove backbone that defines this oriental legend, amplifying the exotic blend of florals and resins while adding warmth and diffusion.

Poivre(Caron, 1954)

Here isoeugenol’s sharp pepper facets are showcased, creating an illusion of freshly cracked peppercorns blended with carnation-like spice.

Jicky(Guerlain, 1889)

The modern version uses isoeugenol to reinforce the carnation accord, adding depth to the lavender-citrus opening and vanilla base.

Diorama(Christian Dior, 1949)

Isoeugenol contributes to the chypre’s spicy heart, bridging between citrus top notes and oakmoss base with its balsamic warmth.

Youth Dew(Estée Lauder, 1953)

The bold spice in this oriental-balsamic owes much to isoeugenol’s tenacious clove character that persists through the fragrance’s development.

Layer 2

2D Molecular Structure

Isoeugenol

SMILES: COC1=CC(C=CC)=CC=C1O

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Isoeugenol is a phenylpropene, specifically the trans-isomer of 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-1-propenylbenzene. While naturally occurring in essential oils, commercial isoeugenol is typically synthesized from eugenol via isomerization. The trans configuration is more stable and exhibits superior odor characteristics compared to the cis form. Modern production often employs catalytic processes using ruthenium or rhodium complexes to achieve high yields of the desired isomer. Its phenolic hydroxyl group makes it moderately polar, while the propenyl side chain contributes to its volatility and diffusion characteristics.

Physical & Chemical Properties

Boiling Point266 °C
Flash Point>110 °C
Density1.08 g/cm³
Refractive Index1.573-1.578
Vapor Pressure0.001 mmHg at 25°C
AppearanceColorless to pale yellow viscous liquid

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Heart
Volatility
Medium (2-4 hours)
Blending
Excellent
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Fine Fragrance0.5-2%Up to 5%Spicy heart note in orientals
Soap0.1-0.5%Up to 1%Provides warm spice character
Candles0.2-1%Up to 2%Diffuses well in hot throw
Leave-on Cosmetics0.01-0.02%Max 0.02%IFRA restricted

Classic Accords

+ Vanilla + Tonka = Spicy Gourmand + Rose + Patchouli = Oriental Floral + Citral + Oakmoss = Classic Chypre + Lavender + Coumarin = Fougère Modern

Tip: Combine with vanillin to enhance sweetness or with woody notes like cedar to emphasize its balsamic facets.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Eugenol CAS 97-53-0

The parent molecule with stronger clove character but less sweetness and diffusion. Prefer when a sharper spice note is needed.

2
Methyl isoeugenol CAS 93-16-3

Ether derivative with similar odor profile but lower allergen potential and better stability in alkaline products.

3
Dihydroeugenol CAS 2785-87-7

Hydrogenated version with reduced allergenicity while maintaining spice character, though less diffusive.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.

IFRA Status

Restricted under IFRA Standard (Amendment 49): Maximum 0.02% in leave-on products, 0.2% in rinse-off. Prohibited in products intended to come into contact with mucous membranes.

EU Allergen Declaration

Listed in Annex III of EU Cosmetics Regulation – must be declared when concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on or 0.01% in rinse-off products.

GHS Classification

H315 Skin irritation H319 Eye irritation H335 May cause respiratory irritation

RIFM Assessment

RIFM assessment confirms skin sensitization potential at current use levels. Not considered phototoxic or mutagenic.

Sustainability

Synthetic production from renewable eugenol sources (clove leaf oil) offers consistent quality and reduces pressure on natural resources. Modern catalytic processes minimize waste and energy use. Being a high-impact material, even small quantities deliver significant olfactory effect, reducing environmental load per unit of fragrance performance.

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References

  1. IFRA Standards Library (2022). Restricted Ingredients List v49. IFRA Standard 49
  2. Bickers et al. (2005). A toxicologic and dermatologic assessment of phenylpropanoids. Food Chem Toxicol. PMID 16112377
  3. Surburg & Panten (2006). Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials. Wiley-VCH. ISBN 9783527608278

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.

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Physicochemical Properties

DTXSID: DTXSID7022413

Physical Properties

Molecular Weight 164.204 g/mol🔬 EPA CompTox
Density 1.081 g/cm^3🔬 EPA CTX
Boiling Point 266.222 °C🔬 EPA CTX
Melting Point -6.893 °C🔬 EPA CTX
Flash Point 109.219 °C🔬 EPA CTX
Refractive Index 1.578 Dimensionless📊 OPERA
Molar Volume 152.841 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA

Partition & Solubility

LogP (Octanol-Water) 2.959 Log10 unitless🔬 EPA CTX
LogD (pH 5.5) 2.796 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogD (pH 7.4) 2.796 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogKoa (Octanol-Air) 7.72 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
Water Solubility 0.005 mol/L🔬 EPA CTX
Henry's Law Constant 0 atm-m3/mole🔬 EPA CTX

Transport Properties

Vapor Pressure 0.014 mmHg🔬 EPA CTX
Viscosity 4.746 cP📊 OPERA
Surface Tension 37.829 dyn/cm📊 OPERA

Molecular Descriptors

Topological Polar Surface Area 29.46 Ų💻 Computed
H-Bond Donors 1 count💻 Computed
H-Bond Acceptors 2 count💻 Computed
Rotatable Bonds 2 count💻 Computed
Aromatic Rings 1 count💻 Computed
Molar Refractivity 50.702 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA
Polarizability 20.1 Å^3📊 OPERA

Data Sources:

🔬 EPA Experimental data from U.S. EPA CompTox Chemicals Dashboard & CTX APIs. 📊 OPERA Predicted using EPA's OPERA QSAR models. 💻 Computed Calculated from SMILES using RDKit.

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