Jambu absolute (CAS 90131-24-1) — Green Top to heart Note Fragrance Ingredient
Jambu absolute
CAS 90131-24-1
What Is Jambu absolute?
Jambu absolute is a rare, natural fragrance material derived from the leaves of the Jambu plant (Acmella oleracea), native to the Amazon. It’s occasionally found in niche perfumery and botanical skincare. This ingredient matters for its unique tingling sensation and fresh, green aroma that perfumers use to create surprising accords.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Jambu absolute Smell Like?
Jambu absolute bursts with an electrifying green freshness reminiscent of crushed mint leaves and young bamboo shoots. The initial impression carries a peculiar tingling sensation, like morning dew on grass with subtle citrus undertones. As it evolves, a deeper herbal character emerges – think fresh-cut parsley stems with a whisper of earthy galbanum. The dry-down reveals a soft, almost cucumber-like wateriness that lingers surprisingly long for such a fresh material.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Features jambu as the star ingredient to create a hyper-realistic ‘tingling green’ effect, paired with shiso leaf and bergamot for a contemporary cologne structure.
Uses jambu absolute in the heart to amplify the wet-earth accord, combining it with calone and vetiver for a dramatic humid jungle effect.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Jambu absolute contains spilanthol (N-isobutyl-2,6,8-decatrienamide) as its primary active constituent, responsible for the characteristic tingling sensation. This alkylamide compound belongs to the N-alkylamide class, similar to those found in Echinacea. The extraction typically involves hexane or supercritical CO2 to preserve the delicate volatile compounds. The material shows chirality with the (2E,6Z,8E)-spilanthol isomer being most biologically active.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Dark green viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Used for fresh-tingling effects |
| Functional Fragrance | 0.05-0.2% | Up to 0.3% | Mouthfeel enhancement in oral care |
Classic Accords
Tip: Always pre-dilute to 10% in ethanol before incorporating to ensure even distribution.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Isolated active compound when the tingling effect is needed without the green notes.
Provides similar green freshness but without the tingling sensation.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
Not currently restricted by IFRA. Self-limiting due to strong organoleptic properties.
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
Under review by RIFM (as of 2023). Traditional use suggests low systemic toxicity.
Sustainability
Jambu is wild-harvested in Brazil under fair trade agreements. The CO2 extraction method has lower environmental impact than solvent extraction. Synthetic spilanthol exists but lacks the full spectrum of natural co-compounds. Overharvesting concerns are mitigated by controlled cultivation programs.
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References
- Boonen J. et al. (2012). Spilanthol from Acmella oleracea. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. PMID 22771316
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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