Jambu absolute (CAS 90131-24-1) — Green Top to heart Note Fragrance Ingredient

Green · Citrus

Jambu absolute

CAS 90131-24-1

Origin
natural
Note
Top to heart
IFRA
Use with awareness
Data as of: Apr 2026

What Is Jambu absolute?

Jambu absolute is a rare, natural fragrance material derived from the leaves of the Jambu plant (Acmella oleracea), native to the Amazon. It’s occasionally found in niche perfumery and botanical skincare. This ingredient matters for its unique tingling sensation and fresh, green aroma that perfumers use to create surprising accords.

Safety Profile

USE WITH AWARENESS
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
Natural origin with traditional use
Contains spilanthol – use moderate concentrations
CAS
90131-24-1
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Green · Citrus
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Jambu absolute Smell Like?

Jambu absolute bursts with an electrifying green freshness reminiscent of crushed mint leaves and young bamboo shoots. The initial impression carries a peculiar tingling sensation, like morning dew on grass with subtle citrus undertones. As it evolves, a deeper herbal character emerges – think fresh-cut parsley stems with a whisper of earthy galbanum. The dry-down reveals a soft, almost cucumber-like wateriness that lingers surprisingly long for such a fresh material.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Eau de Jambu(Olfactive Studio, 2018)

Features jambu as the star ingredient to create a hyper-realistic ‘tingling green’ effect, paired with shiso leaf and bergamot for a contemporary cologne structure.

Rainforest(Aedes de Venustas, 2015)

Uses jambu absolute in the heart to amplify the wet-earth accord, combining it with calone and vetiver for a dramatic humid jungle effect.

Layer 2

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Jambu absolute contains spilanthol (N-isobutyl-2,6,8-decatrienamide) as its primary active constituent, responsible for the characteristic tingling sensation. This alkylamide compound belongs to the N-alkylamide class, similar to those found in Echinacea. The extraction typically involves hexane or supercritical CO2 to preserve the delicate volatile compounds. The material shows chirality with the (2E,6Z,8E)-spilanthol isomer being most biologically active.

Physical & Chemical Properties

AppearanceDark green viscous liquid
SolubilitySoluble in alcohol, insoluble in water

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Top to heart
Volatility
Medium (2-4 hours)
Blending
Challenging
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Fine Fragrance0.1-0.5%Up to 1%Used for fresh-tingling effects
Functional Fragrance0.05-0.2%Up to 0.3%Mouthfeel enhancement in oral care

Classic Accords

+ Grapefruit + Black Pepper = Electric Freshness + Violet Leaf + Cardamom = Modern Chypre

Tip: Always pre-dilute to 10% in ethanol before incorporating to ensure even distribution.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Spilanthol CAS 18880-26-1

Isolated active compound when the tingling effect is needed without the green notes.

2
Shiso Leaf CO2 CAS 90131-34-3

Provides similar green freshness but without the tingling sensation.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.

IFRA Status

Not currently restricted by IFRA. Self-limiting due to strong organoleptic properties.

GHS Classification

H315 Skin irritation H319 Eye irritation

RIFM Assessment

Under review by RIFM (as of 2023). Traditional use suggests low systemic toxicity.

Sustainability

Jambu is wild-harvested in Brazil under fair trade agreements. The CO2 extraction method has lower environmental impact than solvent extraction. Synthetic spilanthol exists but lacks the full spectrum of natural co-compounds. Overharvesting concerns are mitigated by controlled cultivation programs.

Explore Jambu absolute

Browse essential oils and aroma compounds.

Browse on iHerb →

Affiliate disclosure: we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

References

  1. Boonen J. et al. (2012). Spilanthol from Acmella oleracea. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. PMID 22771316

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.

Report a data error

Similar Posts