Wormwood oil (CAS 8008-93-3) — Green Heart Note Fragrance Ingredient
Wormwood oil
CAS 8008-93-3
What Is Wormwood oil?
Wormwood oil is derived from the Artemisia absinthium plant, commonly encountered in absinthe and traditional herbal remedies. Its distinctive bitter-green aroma carries historical significance in perfumery and mixology. This oil matters for creating complex herbal accords, though its thujone content requires careful formulation due to regulatory restrictions.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Wormwood oil Smell Like?
Wormwood oil bursts with an intensely bitter-green aroma reminiscent of crushed sage leaves and damp forest undergrowth. The opening is sharply herbaceous with camphoraceous undertones, evolving into a dry, woody heart with subtle floral nuances. The dry-down reveals a lingering medicinal quality – like antique apothecary cabinets lined with dried botanicals. Exceptionally tenacious, it adds dark complexity to fragrances.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Uses wormwood’s narcotic greenness as the centerpiece, amplified by patchouli and incense to recreate absinthe’s hallucinogenic reputation.
Wormwood provides arid herbal sharpness that contrasts with the fragrance’s warm amber base, evoking Moroccan landscapes.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Wormwood oil’s key components include thujone (α- and β- isomers), which are monoterpene ketones responsible for its psychoactive reputation. The oil also contains chamazulene (giving a blue hue), pinene, and sesquiterpene lactones. Steam distillation of flowering tops yields 0.2-0.8% oil. Thujone’s bicyclic structure makes it highly reactive, requiring stabilization in formulations.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Pale yellow to blue-green liquid |
|---|---|
| Density | 0.92-0.96 g/cm³ |
| Refractive Index | 1.468-1.488 |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-0.5% | Max 1% | Used sparingly for herbal complexity |
| Home Fragrance | 0.05-0.2% | Max 0.5% | Adds aromatic depth to candles/diffusers |
Classic Accords
Tip: Always pre-dilute in alcohol before blending to prevent precipitation of thujone crystals.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Provides similar herbal-fruity complexity without thujone restrictions. Works well in oriental compositions.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
Restricted under IFRA 49th Amendment – maximum 0.25% in leave-on products due to thujone content.
EU Allergen Declaration
None specified
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM assessment completed – restricted use recommended due to neurotoxic potential of thujone.
Sustainability
Wild harvesting threatens some Artemisia populations. Sustainable cultivation in France and Eastern Europe is increasing. CO2 extraction improves yield over steam distillation. Synthetic thujone-free alternatives are available but lack the oil’s full complexity.
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References
- Lachenmeier DW (2010). Thujone-attributable effects of absinthe. Addiction Biology. PMID 20148778
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 8008-93-3Odor & Flavor
| See above, Artemisia.📖 Fenaroli |
Regulatory Status
| IOFI Classification | Natural📖 Fenaroli |
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
