Blue tansy oil (CAS 91722-52-0) — Herbaceous Heart Note Fragrance Ingredient
Blue tansy oil
CAS 91722-52-0
What Is Blue tansy oil?
Blue tansy oil is a rare essential oil distilled from Moroccan chamomile flowers. It’s found in premium skincare and niche perfumes for its striking blue color and complex aroma. This oil matters because it provides a unique bridge between herbaceous and sweet notes, valued in aromatherapy for its calming properties.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Blue tansy oil Smell Like?
Blue tansy unfolds with an initial medicinal sharpness that quickly mellows into a honeyed herbaceous heart. Imagine crushed wildflowers mixed with damp earth after rain, evolving into a dry-down reminiscent of antique leather-bound books. The oil maintains a persistent camphoraceous edge that keeps it from becoming cloying, with subtle fruity undertones emerging over time.
Scent Profile
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Blue tansy provides the aromatic bridge between citrus top notes and vanilla base in this cult fragrance, contributing an intriguing herbal complexity.
Used sparingly to add depth to the magnolia accord, creating a sophisticated contrast between floral sweetness and herbal freshness.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Blue tansy oil’s characteristic blue color comes from chamazulene, formed during distillation from matricin. The oil contains up to 50% sesquiterpenes including β-caryophyllene, with significant amounts of sabinene and camphor. Its composition varies dramatically based on growing conditions and distillation parameters.
Chemical Composition
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Deep blue viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Specific Gravity | 0.912-0.959 |
| Refractive Index | 1.498-1.528 |
Key Constituent Properties
| Constituent | CAS | MW | BP °C | XLogP | Vapor P. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sabinene | 3387-41-5 | 136.24 | 163-165°C | 3.1 | |
| β-Caryophyllene | 87-44-5 | 204.36 | 262-264°C | 4.8 |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Adds herbal sophistication |
| Skincare | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Valued for anti-inflammatory properties |
Classic Accords
Tip: Use blue tansy to add an enigmatic herbal quality that prevents floral compositions from becoming too sweet.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Offers similar anti-inflammatory properties but with a sweeter, fruitier profile lacking blue tansy’s distinctive herbaceous edge.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.
IFRA Status
No restrictions under IFRA standards, though recommended usage levels should be followed due to chamazulene content.
EU Allergen Declaration
None required for current constituents.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM has evaluated key constituents with no significant safety concerns at typical usage levels.
Sustainability
Blue tansy is hand-harvested in Morocco, with wild populations under pressure due to popularity. Ethical sourcing initiatives are helping preserve traditional collection methods while ensuring fair wages for harvesters.
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References
- Edris AE (2007). Pharmaceutical and therapeutic potentials of essential oils. Bioresource Technology. Link
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.
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