Castoreum absolute (CAS 8023-83-4) — Animalic Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Castoreum absolute
CAS 8023-83-4
What Is Castoreum absolute?
Castoreum absolute is a rare animal-derived fragrance ingredient harvested from beaver castor sacs. Historically used in luxury perfumery, it’s now mostly replaced by synthetic alternatives. This ingredient matters because it represents traditional perfumery’s connection to animal musks, though ethical sourcing concerns have reduced its modern usage.
Safety Profile
PROFESSIONAL USEWhat Does Castoreum absolute Smell Like?
Castoreum absolute delivers a complex animalic warmth – imagine sun-warmed leather saddles layered with birch tar smokiness and a subtle urinous sharpness. The initial pungency mellows into a rich, musky sweetness reminiscent of Russian leather and tobacco. Over hours, it reveals hidden facets: woody undertones, faintly medicinal phenolics, and a persistent skin-like intimacy that clings to fabrics.
Scent Profile
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Used for its leathery-animalic depth that complements vanilla and iris. Provides the signature ‘dirty clean’ contrast in this oriental masterpiece.
Castoreum’s birch-like facets enhance the birch tar leather accord, creating an authentic Russian leather impression with animalic warmth.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Castoreum is a complex secretion containing hundreds of compounds including phenols (guaiacol, cresols), ketones (acetophenone), and alcohols. The absolute is obtained through solvent extraction of dried castor sacs. Key odorants include castorin (a crystalline substance) and various acidic compounds that develop during aging. Modern synthetic alternatives often combine para-cresyl derivatives with birch tar notes.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous dark brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Used sparingly for animalic depth |
| Leather Accords | 0.5-2% | Up to 3% | Blends with birch tar and tobacco |
Classic Accords
Tip: Use in trace amounts – overdosing creates unpleasant fecal notes.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Blends of para-cresyl acetate, isobutyl quinoline and birch tar recreate the leather-animalic profile without animal sourcing.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.
IFRA Status
Not restricted but discouraged due to ethical concerns. IFRA recommends synthetic alternatives.
RIFM Assessment
Not currently assessed by RIFM due to limited use.
Sustainability
Ethical concerns over animal harvesting have made natural castoreum nearly obsolete. Most modern perfumery uses synthetic alternatives. Sustainable options include plant-derived musks and biotechnology-produced animalic compounds. Traditional harvesting methods (without harming beavers) exist but are labor-intensive.
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References
- Baldovini N. et al. (2011). Phytochemistry of the essential oil of castoreum. Flavour Fragr. J. DOI:10.1002/ffj.2056
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 8023-83-4Odor & Flavor
| Prepared by direct extraction with hot alcohol. It is not a true absolute and it is not clearly soluble in cold alcohol. The yield by hot alcohol extraction is about 75 to 80% of a dark-brown, soft, unctuous mass. Extract is used as flavor components (particularly in vanilla flavorings) in most food and beverages. For other details of description also see above, Castroreum.📖 Fenaroli |
Regulatory Status
| IOFI Classification | Natural📖 Fenaroli |
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
