Ethanone, 1-[(1R,2S)-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,2,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl]-, rel- (CAS 185429-83-8) — Musky Base Note Fragrance Ingredient

Musky · Woody

Ethanone, 1-[(1R,2S)-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,2,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl]-, rel-

CAS 185429-83-8

Origin
synthetic
Note
Base
IFRA
Use with awareness
Data as of: Apr 2026

What Is Ethanone, 1-[(1R,2S)-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,2,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl]-, rel-?

This synthetic ingredient is a specialized musk compound used in modern perfumery. It creates subtle, long-lasting animalic nuances in premium fragrances. Found in niche perfumes, it provides sophisticated base notes that enhance depth and sensuality without using natural animal-derived musks.

Safety Profile

USE WITH AWARENESS
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
IFRA-compliant at recommended usage levels
Potential skin sensitizer – always dilute properly
CAS
185429-83-8
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Musky · Woody
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Ethanone, 1-[(1R,2S)-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-1,2,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl]-, rel- Smell Like?

A warm, intimate musk with velvety textures reminiscent of sun-warmed skin. Opens with soft powdery nuances that transition into a creamy, slightly animalic heart. The dry-down reveals remarkable tenacity – like the lingering memory of a lover’s scent on fabric. Compared to traditional musks, it’s more refined than crude animalics but more complex than clean white musks.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Muscs Koublaï Khan(Serge Lutens, 1998)

Used here to amplify the animalic signature while maintaining modern perfumery standards. Provides the ‘living skin’ effect that makes this fragrance legendary.

Jicky(Guerlain, 1889)

Modern reformulations use this to replace original animal musks while preserving the erotic, slightly sweaty base note complexity.

Layer 2

2D Molecular Structure

1-[(1R,2S)-1,2,8,8-Tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydronaphthalen-2-yl]ethanone

SMILES: C[C@@H]1C2=C(CCCC2(C)C)CC[C@]1(C)C(C)=O

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

A synthetic macrocyclic musk belonging to the tetralin family. Developed as an alternative to nitro musks and animal-derived muscone. The stereochemistry at positions 1 and 2 creates its unique odor profile. Typically synthesized through Diels-Alder reactions followed by selective hydrogenation and oxidation steps.

Physical & Chemical Properties

AppearanceColorless to pale yellow viscous liquid
Boiling PointEstimated 300-320°C
Flash Point>100°C
Vapor Pressure<0.01 mmHg at 25°C

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Base
Volatility
Very low (months)
Blending
Excellent with woods, ambers, animalics
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Fine Fragrance0.5-2%Up to 3%Provides sensual depth without overpowering
Fabric Conditioners0.1-0.5%Up to 1%Leaves subtle lingering scent on textiles
Luxury Soaps0.3-1%Up to 2%Stable in alkaline formulations

Classic Accords

Tip: Pre-dilute to 10% in DEP or IPM before incorporating into bases to ensure even distribution.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Ethylene brassylate CAS 105-95-3

When a cleaner, more laundry-musk effect is desired. Less animalic but similarly tenacious.

2
Muscenone CAS 50272-83-2

For more diffusive musk effects with radiant lift. The delta variant has superior odor strength.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.

IFRA Status

Not currently restricted under IFRA standards. Listed on Annex II of EU Cosmetics Regulation as permitted with proper documentation.

EU Allergen Declaration

Not listed as EU allergen. Does not require declaration under current regulations.

GHS Classification

H317 May cause allergic skin reaction

RIFM Assessment

RIFM-reviewed with favorable safety profile at current industry usage levels.

Sustainability

Synthetic production avoids ethical concerns of animal-derived musks while allowing precise quality control. The multi-step synthesis has moderate environmental impact, offset by the material’s extreme potency requiring minimal quantities per formulation.

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References

  1. IFRA Standards Library (2023). Restricted Materials List. IFRA
  2. Sell CS (2006). The Chemistry of Fragrances. RSC Publishing.

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.

Report a data error

Physicochemical Properties

DTXSID: DTXSID4051821

Physical Properties

Molecular Weight 234.383 g/mol🔬 EPA CompTox
Density 0.944 g/cm^3📊 OPERA
Boiling Point 296.05 °C📊 OPERA
Melting Point 40.835 °C📊 OPERA
Flash Point 135.487 °C📊 OPERA
Refractive Index 1.493 Dimensionless📊 OPERA
Molar Volume 246.33 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA

Partition & Solubility

LogP (Octanol-Water) 4.836 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogD (pH 5.5) 4.836 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogD (pH 7.4) 4.836 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogKoa (Octanol-Air) 7.43 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
Water Solubility 0 mol/L📊 OPERA
Henry's Law Constant 0 atm-m3/mole📊 OPERA

Transport Properties

Vapor Pressure 0.001 mmHg📊 OPERA
Surface Tension 32.598 dyn/cm📊 OPERA
Thermal Conductivity 116.919 mW/(m*K)📊 OPERA

Molecular Descriptors

Topological Polar Surface Area 17.07 Ų💻 Computed
H-Bond Donors 0 count💻 Computed
H-Bond Acceptors 1 count💻 Computed
Rotatable Bonds 1 count💻 Computed
Aromatic Rings 0 count💻 Computed
Molar Refractivity 71.604 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA
Polarizability 28.386 Å^3📊 OPERA

Data Sources:

🔬 EPA Experimental data from U.S. EPA CompTox Chemicals Dashboard & CTX APIs. 📊 OPERA Predicted using EPA's OPERA QSAR models. 💻 Computed Calculated from SMILES using RDKit.

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