Iris germanica absolute (CAS 1048028-77-8) — Floral Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Iris germanica absolute
CAS 1048028-77-8
What Is Iris germanica absolute?
Iris germanica absolute is a precious floral extract derived from the roots of the German iris. It’s found in luxury perfumes and niche fragrances. This ingredient matters because it provides a rare, powdery-woody scent profile that’s highly valued in perfumery for its complexity and longevity.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Iris germanica absolute Smell Like?
Iris germanica absolute unfolds with an initial burst of violet-like floralcy, quickly revealing its signature powdery-soft heart reminiscent of antique face powder and suede gloves. The dry-down is profoundly woody-earthy, with hints of carrot root and warm parchment. Unlike synthetic ionones, it carries a subtle animalic undertone that adds depth and mystery.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Showcases the cold, metallic aspects of iris absolute, using it as the central pillar surrounded by cedar and incense to amplify its woody character.
A transparent interpretation where iris absolute’s powdery facets are brightened with citrus and hedione for a modern, airy effect.
Revolutionized masculine perfumery by pairing iris absolute’s powderiness with cocoa and leather, creating a suede-like texture.
Uses iris absolute sparingly to achieve a clean, almost starch-like effect against a backdrop of orange blossom and benzoin.
Highlights iris absolute’s rooty, earthy qualities by contrasting it with incense and ambrette for a mystical dry-down.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Iris germanica absolute contains a complex mixture of irone isomers (α-, β-, and γ-irone), which are responsible for its characteristic odor. These C14 ketones develop during the lengthy aging process of orris roots. The absolute is obtained through solvent extraction of the concrete, yielding a higher proportion of odor-active compounds compared to essential oil. Chirality plays a crucial role, with different enantiomers contributing to the overall scent profile.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous yellow-brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, fixed oils |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Used sparingly due to potency |
| Soaps | 0.01-0.05% | Up to 0.1% | Often paired with ionones |
| Cosmetics | 0.001-0.01% | Up to 0.05% | Provides powdery nuance |
Classic Accords
Tip: Allow extra maceration time as iris absolute develops slowly in blends.
Alternatives & Comparisons
More floral and less earthy than Germanica, preferred for brighter compositions.
The fatty fraction with softer, creamier aspects when powderiness needs tempering.
Synthetic alternative for cost-sensitive applications requiring similar powdery notes.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No IFRA restrictions. Listed in IFRA Transparency List for information only.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM considers natural iris absolutes safe at current usage levels based on historical data.
Sustainability
Iris germanica cultivation requires 3-5 years before roots can be harvested, making sustainable farming practices crucial. The lengthy processing (drying for 3 years) impacts supply stability. Some perfumers blend with synthetic irones to reduce environmental impact while maintaining olfactory character.
Explore Iris germanica absolute
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References
- Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin.
- Sell, C. (2006). The Chemistry of Fragrances.
- Baldovini, N. et al. (2011). Phytochemistry of the Essential Oil and Secretory Cells of Iris. DOI: 10.1016/j.phytochem.2011.01.021
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 1048028-77-8Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
