Isoamyl salicylate (CAS 87-20-7) — Floral Heart to base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Isoamyl salicylate
CAS 87-20-7
What Is Isoamyl salicylate?
Isoamyl salicylate is a synthetic fragrance ingredient that mimics the sweet, floral character of certain flowers and herbs. You’ll encounter it in perfumes, body lotions, and soaps where it contributes a soft, powdery floral note. This versatile material bridges floral and herbal accords, making it particularly valuable in creating balanced fragrance compositions that need to maintain floral character without becoming overly sweet or heavy.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFEWhat Does Isoamyl salicylate Smell Like?
Isoamyl salicylate greets the nose with a soft, powdery floral bouquet reminiscent of clover fields in spring. Its initial impression carries subtle green undertones that gradually give way to a heart of sweet, creamy florals – imagine orchid petals dusted with powdered sugar. The dry-down reveals a delicate medicinal whisper, like chamomile tea left to cool in a porcelain cup. Unlike sharper salicylates, it maintains remarkable tenacity while avoiding any harsh edges, making it ideal for rounding out floral compositions. Its behavior on skin is particularly graceful, transforming from bright to intimate over several hours.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Used to soften the aldehydic top notes and bridge the floral heart, contributing to the legendary powdery-floral character without overwhelming the delicate jasmine-rose accord.
Provides the subtle medicinal undertone that balances the carnation and spice notes, creating the fragrance’s distinctive ‘cool warmth’ effect.
Used sparingly to round out the sharp edges of the spice accord, adding a creamy floral counterpoint to the cinnamon and clove.
Contributes to the clean floral impression, mimicking the scent of sun-dried linen with a touch of floral sophistication.
Helps create the seamless floral bouquet effect by smoothing transitions between the brighter top florals and deeper heart notes.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Isoamyl salicylate belongs to the ester class, specifically a salicylate ester formed from salicylic acid and isoamyl alcohol. While salicylic acid occurs naturally in willow bark and some fruits, this particular ester is almost exclusively produced synthetically. Industrial synthesis typically involves Fischer esterification, where salicylic acid reacts with isoamyl alcohol in the presence of an acid catalyst. The process requires careful control of temperature and reaction time to maximize yield and purity. Unlike some floral ingredients, isoamyl salicylate doesn’t exhibit chirality, making its production relatively straightforward compared to optically active fragrance materials.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Boiling Point | 277 °C |
|---|---|
| Density | 1.047 g/cm³ |
| Refractive Index | 1.505 |
| Flash Point | >100 °C |
| Solubility | Insoluble in water, soluble in alcohol and oils |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 2-5% | Up to 10% | Floral modifier and blender |
| Soaps | 0.5-2% | Up to 3% | Provides lasting floral character |
| Detergents | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Used for floral lift |
| Candles | 3-8% | Up to 12% | Performs well in hot throw |
Classic Accords
Tip: Use to smooth harsh floral top notes and create seamless transitions in complex bouquets.
Alternatives & Comparisons
When a more tenacious, less sweet floral character is needed; also functions as a solvent/fixative in higher concentrations.
For a more honeyed floral effect with greater persistence in the base notes.
When a greener, fresher floral character is desired, particularly in aquatic or fresh floral compositions.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
Not restricted under current IFRA standards. Listed on IFRA Transparency List with no usage limitations.
RIFM Assessment
Evaluated by RIFM and deemed safe for current fragrance use patterns and concentrations.
Sustainability
As a synthetic material, isoamyl salicylate doesn’t require agricultural land or contribute to deforestation. Its production from petrochemical precursors does raise some environmental considerations regarding fossil fuel dependence. However, modern manufacturing processes have significantly reduced waste and energy consumption compared to early production methods. The material’s stability and efficacy at low concentrations make it relatively sustainable in terms of transport and storage requirements compared to some natural alternatives.
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References
- Bauer, K. et al. (2001). Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials. Wiley-VCH. ISBN 978-3-527-30665-2
- Arctander, S. (1969). Perfume and Flavor Chemicals. Allured Publishing. ASIN B0006BZ1VW
- IFRA Standards Library IFRA Standards
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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