Labdanum, ext., Et esters (CAS 73138-66-6) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Labdanum, ext., Et esters
CAS 73138-66-6
What Is Labdanum, ext., Et esters?
Labdanum absolute is a rich, resinous material derived from the rockrose plant. It’s found in amber-themed perfumes and oriental fragrances. This prized ingredient has been used since ancient times for its warm, leathery-woody character. Modern perfumery values labdanum for its ability to add depth and longevity to compositions while blending seamlessly with both synthetic and natural materials.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFEWhat Does Labdanum, ext., Et esters Smell Like?
Labdanum absolute opens with an intense, animalic leather note reminiscent of sun-warmed saddles and medieval apothecaries. As it evolves, the resinous heart reveals complex facets: sticky amber sap, dry tobacco leaves, and a whisper of church incense. The dry-down is a masterclass in persistence – leaving a warm, musky trail that clings to skin like ancient parchment infused with honeyed woods.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Labdanum forms the resinous backbone of this iconic amber, blending with myrrh and coriander to create a medieval apothecary effect.
One of the first modern uses of labdanum, providing leathery depth to this groundbreaking citrus-aromatic fougère.
Labdanum’s resinous quality helps bridge the gap between bergamot top notes and oakmoss base in this genre-defining chypre.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Labdanum absolute contains over 300 identified compounds, primarily labdane-type diterpenes like labdanolic acid. The extraction process (typically solvent extraction of the crude resin) concentrates these heavy molecules, which are responsible for its exceptional tenacity. Key odorants include ambroxan precursors that develop during aging, contributing to the material’s legendary aging potential in perfumery.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous dark brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 1-3% | Up to 5% | Amber bases, oriental accords |
| Home Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 3% | Adds warmth to candles/diffusers |
Classic Accords
Tip: Use labdanum to ‘glue’ together disparate elements in oriental compositions – it acts as both fixative and bridge.
Alternatives & Comparisons
When a cleaner, more diffusive amber effect is needed without labdanum’s leathery aspects.
For similar resinous qualities but with brighter, more balsamic character.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No restrictions under current IFRA standards.
EU Allergen Declaration
None specified in EU Cosmetics Regulation No 1223/2009.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM assessment confirms safe use at current industry levels.
Sustainability
Wild-harvested in Mediterranean regions, labdanum collection supports rural economies but requires sustainable practices to prevent overharvesting. The labor-intensive collection process (traditionally using leather straps to gather resin from bushes) contributes to its premium price point. Recent cultivation initiatives aim to ensure long-term supply.
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References
- Boelens, M.H. (1995). Chemical and Sensory Evaluation of Labdanum Oil. Perfumer & Flavorist.
- Arctander, S. (1960). Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin.
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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