Melilotus officinalis absolute (CAS 8023-73-2) — Sweet Middle to base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Melilotus officinalis absolute
CAS 8023-73-2
What Is Melilotus officinalis absolute?
Melilotus officinalis absolute, derived from sweet clover flowers, is a rare perfumery material encountered in niche fragrances. Its hay-like, coumarinic aroma evokes sun-drenched meadows and dried herbs. This ingredient matters because it bridges floral and woody accords, adding a warm, honeyed nuance that evolves beautifully on skin.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Melilotus officinalis absolute Smell Like?
Opens with an intense hay-like sweetness reminiscent of sun-baked alfalfa fields, layered with subtle floral undertones of dried chamomile. The heart reveals a complex coumarinic character – imagine vanilla pods steeped in honey with a whisper of almond. Dry-down is warm and powdery, like antique linen stored with dried lavender, leaving a delicate woody-herbal trail that persists for hours.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Used for its hay-like coumarin notes that complement the lavender and vanilla, creating the first modern fougère structure.
Provides a honeyed, dried floral counterpoint to the fresh lily-of-the-valley, enhancing the floral bouquet’s longevity.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Melilotus absolute contains coumarin derivatives including melilotic acid and dicoumarol, formed through enzymatic action during the plant’s drying process. The characteristic aroma develops through lactonization of o-hydroxycinnamic acids. Extraction typically involves hydrocarbon solvent washing of dried flowers followed by alcohol washing to produce the absolute.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol and oils |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Used as coumarin modifier |
| Soaps | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Adds hay-like warmth |
Classic Accords
Tip: Age the absolute for several months to develop fuller coumarinic character before use.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Provides similar coumarinic warmth but with more pronounced vanilla and almond facets.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No restrictions under current IFRA standards.
RIFM Assessment
Recognized as safe for use in current applications by RIFM.
Sustainability
Wild harvesting pressures exist in some regions. Sustainable cultivation programs are developing in France and Bulgaria. The solvent extraction process has higher environmental impact than steam distillation.
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References
- Guenther, E. (1952). The Essential Oils. Van Nostrand.
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 8023-73-2Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
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