Oud Oil (Agarwood) (CAS 68991-50-4) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Oud Oil (Agarwood)
CAS 68991-50-4
What Is Oud Oil (Agarwood)?
Oud oil, also called agarwood oil, is a rare and luxurious fragrance ingredient derived from infected Aquilaria trees. You’ll encounter it in high-end perfumes, incense, and Middle Eastern attars. This prized material develops when the tree produces a dark, resinous heartwood in response to fungal infection. Oud matters because it’s one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery, prized for its complex, evolving scent profile that combines woody, animalic, and medicinal facets. Its rarity and cultural significance make it a symbol of luxury across many traditions.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Oud Oil (Agarwood) Smell Like?
Oud oil unfolds with an initial medicinal smokiness reminiscent of antique wooden apothecary cabinets, quickly revealing a rich tapestry of leathery, barnyard-like animalics softened by honeyed sweetness. As it develops, the scent evolves into a profound woody heart with balsamic undertones – imagine sandalwood soaked in aged cognac with whispers of damp earth. The dry-down lasts for days, leaving a haunting trail of incense-like warmth with subtle floral nuances that emerge like forgotten memories. Authentic oud carries an almost holographic complexity, shifting between leather, wood, and fruit facets with each sniff.
Scent Profile
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
This modern classic blends oud with cardamom and vanilla, softening oud’s animalic edges while showcasing its woody depth. The oud here acts as a velvety foundation that contrasts beautifully with bright top notes.
One of the first Western fragrances to feature oud prominently, M7 uses it to create a medicinal, almost antiseptic woody character that shocked and fascinated the perfume world upon release.
This intense composition pairs oud with rose in a classic Middle Eastern style, where the oud’s leathery facets amplify the rose’s natural honeyed aspects for a hypnotic effect.
Dior’s take on oud emphasizes its smoky, resinous qualities by pairing it with patchouli and sandalwood, creating a scent that feels simultaneously ancient and contemporary.
This artisanal interpretation showcases oud’s complexity by letting it shine nearly solo, with just subtle spices and woods to frame its multifaceted character.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Oud oil is a complex mixture of sesquiterpenes and oxygenated sesquiterpenoids produced by Aquilaria trees as a defense mechanism against fungal infection. Key components include agarospirol (5-15%), α-agarofuran, β-agarofuran, and various derivatives of eudesmane, guaiane, and vetispirane skeletons. The oil’s composition varies dramatically based on tree species (Aquilaria malaccensis being most prized), infection type, and extraction method. Traditional hydrodistillation yields about 0.5-1.5% oil from infected wood chips, while modern CO2 extraction can produce higher yields with different aromatic profiles.
Chemical Composition
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Dark amber to brown viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in ethanol, insoluble in water |
Key Constituent Properties
| Constituent | CAS | MW | BP °C | XLogP | Vapor P. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Agarospirol | 6731-30-8 | 222.37 | 300-310 °C | 4.2 | 0.0001 mmHg |
| α-Agarofuran | 19888-34-7 | 218.34 | 285 °C | 4.5 | 0.0002 mmHg |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-1% | Up to 3% | Used sparingly due to intensity |
| Incense | 5-15% | Up to 25% | Traditional religious and ceremonial use |
| Attars | 10-30% | Up to 50% | Middle Eastern traditional perfumery |
Classic Accords
Tip: Always pre-dilute oud oil to 1-5% in ethanol before incorporating into a formula to ensure even distribution.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Reconstitutions using cedar, vetiver, and animalic notes can approximate some oud facets at lower cost, though they lack the full complexity.
For projects needing woody richness without oud’s animalic character, aged sandalwood provides comparable tenacity with creamier facets.
When a smoky, medicinal wood note is desired but authentic oud is unavailable, rectified cade oil offers some similar phenolic aspects.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.
IFRA Status
No IFRA restrictions currently apply to oud oil (as of Amendment 49). However, some individual components may be restricted.
EU Allergen Declaration
Not listed as an EU allergen, but may contain trace amounts of naturally occurring allergens like benzyl benzoate.
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM has conducted safety assessments on several key constituents of oud oil, finding them safe at typical usage levels.
Sustainability
Wild Aquilaria trees are CITES Appendix II listed due to overharvesting. Sustainable production now comes from plantation-grown trees artificially inoculated with fungi. Ethical sourcing is crucial – look for suppliers with transparent supply chains. Synthetic alternatives help reduce pressure on wild populations while CO2 extraction improves yield efficiency from cultivated trees.
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References
- Naef R. (2011). The volatile and semi-volatile constituents of agarwood, the infected heartwood of Aquilaria species. Phytochemistry Reviews. DOI:10.1007/s11101-010-9188-7
- CITES. (2021). Aquilaria spp. identification manual for customs and enforcement officers. CITES Pub
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.
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