Patchouli Oil (CAS 8014-09-3) — earthy base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Patchouli Oil
CAS 8014-09-3
What Is Patchouli Oil?
Patchouli oil is an earthy, woody essential oil derived from the leaves of the patchouli plant, native to tropical regions. It’s commonly found in perfumes, incense, and aromatherapy products. This oil is prized for its deep, grounding aroma that adds complexity and longevity to fragrances, making it a staple in oriental and woody scent profiles.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFE
What Does Patchouli Oil Smell Like?
Patchouli oil exudes a rich, earthy aroma with deep woody undertones and a hint of sweet, balsamic warmth. Initially, it presents a slightly camphoraceous top note that quickly evolves into a complex heart of damp soil and dried herbs. The dry-down reveals a luxurious, velvety base with lingering spicy and musky facets. Its scent is often compared to wet forest floors after rain, with a narcotic depth that adds gravitas to any composition.
Scent Profile
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Patchouli provides the earthy foundation that balances the citrus and floral notes, adding depth and longevity to this modern chypre.
A soliflore showcasing patchouli’s full spectrum from damp earth to chocolatey richness, amplified by amber and woods.
Used sparingly to anchor the citrus top notes with a clean, modern woody base.
Patchouli blends with vanilla and amber to create the iconic oriental base of this legendary fragrance.
A bold interpretation where smoky birch tar amplifies patchouli’s dark, leathery facets.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Patchouli alcohol (C15H26O) is a sesquiterpene alcohol that constitutes 30-40% of patchouli oil. The molecule features a tricyclic structure with three fused rings and a hydroxyl group. Natural patchouli oil contains both (-)-patchouli alcohol and its enantiomer, with the (-)-form being more common. Industrial production involves steam distillation of Pogostemon cablin leaves, though synthetic routes exist via cyclization of germacrene derivatives. The molecule’s high molecular weight and low volatility contribute to its persistent base note character in perfumery.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Molecular Weight | 222.37 g/mol |
|---|---|
| XLogP | 4.1 |
| TPSA | 20.2 Ų |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 1-3% | Up to 5% | Base note fixative |
| Home Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 3% | Adds depth to candles/diffusers |
| Cosmetics | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Used sparingly in lotions/soaps |
| Aromatherapy | 0.5-1% | Up to 2% | Grounding effect in blends |
Classic Accords
+ Bergamot + Oakmoss = Chypre
+ Rose + Oud = Middle Eastern
+ Citrus + White Musk = Modern Fresh
Tip: Use aged patchouli oil for smoother integration – fresh distillates can be harsh and camphoraceous.
Alternatives & Comparisons
A fractionated patchouli with removed camphoraceous notes, offering cleaner woody character for modern fragrances.
Synthetic alternative providing extreme woody diffusion without the earthy facets.
Iso-E Super-like material that can substitute some woody functions in fresh compositions.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.
IFRA Status
No IFRA restrictions. Listed in IFRA Transparency List Amendment 51.
EU Allergen Declaration
Not listed in EU allergen declaration requirements.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM safety assessment confirms safe use at current levels in fragrances (2015 evaluation).
Sustainability
Patchouli is primarily cultivated in Indonesia, China, and India, with sustainability concerns around deforestation for plantations. Ethical sourcing programs exist to support small farmers. The plant requires significant land and water resources, making synthetic alternatives environmentally favorable in some cases. However, natural patchouli supports rural economies and provides superior olfactory complexity compared to synthetic versions.
Explore Patchouli Oil
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Industry & Science Data
References
- PubChem Compound Summary for Patchouli alcohol CID 442384
- Sell C. (2006). The Chemistry of Fragrances. RSC Publishing.
- IFRA Standards Library IFRA Amendment 51
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.
