Polysorbate 20 (CAS 9005-64-5) — Citrus Fragrance Ingredient

ByThe Good Scents
neutral

Polysorbate 20

CAS 9005-64-5

Origin
synthetic
Note
IFRA
Generally safe
Data as of: Mar 2026

What Is Polysorbate 20?

Polysorbate 20 is a synthetic emulsifier commonly found in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food products. It helps blend oil and water-based ingredients together, creating smooth textures in lotions, shampoos, and ice creams. While odorless itself, it plays a crucial role in fragrance delivery systems by stabilizing scent molecules in products. This ingredient matters because it ensures even distribution of fragrances and active ingredients, enhancing product performance and shelf life without contributing its own smell.

Safety Profile

GENERALLY SAFE
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
✓ Approved for food and cosmetic use
✓ Non-toxic at typical usage levels
CAS
9005-64-5
Formula
C26H50O10
MW
522.7
Odor Family
neutral
Polysorbate 20 2D structure
Polysorbate 20
C26H50O10
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Polysorbate 20 Smell Like?

Polysorbate 20 is completely odorless, serving as a neutral carrier rather than a fragrant material. Its molecular structure acts as an invisible workhorse in formulations, quietly enabling other aromatic compounds to shine without imparting any olfactory characteristics of its own. The complete absence of smell makes it particularly valuable for applications requiring pure delivery of other scent molecules without interference.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Layer 2

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Polysorbate 20 is a polyoxyethylene derivative of sorbitan monolaurate, belonging to the class of nonionic surfactants. It’s synthesized through the ethoxylation of sorbitan followed by esterification with lauric acid. The molecule features hydrophilic polyoxyethylene chains and a lipophilic lauric acid tail, giving it amphiphilic properties. This structure allows it to reduce surface tension between immiscible liquids. As a synthetic compound, it’s produced in consistent quality without natural variation concerns.

Physical & Chemical Properties

Molecular Weight522.7 g/mol
XLogP2.5

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Neutral
Volatility
Non-volatile
Blending
Functional
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Cosmetic Emulsions0.5-5%Up to 10%Stabilizes fragrance oils
Pharmaceuticals0.1-2%Up to 5%Solubilizes active ingredients
Food Products0.05-0.5%Up to 1%Emulsifying agent

Classic Accords

Tip: Use to solubilize hydrophobic fragrance oils in aqueous systems while maintaining clarity.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Polysorbate 80 CAS 9005-65-6

Similar emulsifier with oleic acid instead of lauric acid, offering slightly different solubility properties for more lipophilic compounds.

2
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil CAS 61788-85-0

Nonionic surfactant alternative with excellent solubilizing power for essential oils and fragrances in clear systems.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.

IFRA Status

Not restricted by IFRA – classified as a processing aid rather than fragrance ingredient.

RIFM Assessment

RIFM considers polysorbate 20 safe for current use levels based on extensive safety data.

Sustainability

As a petrochemical-derived material, polysorbate 20’s environmental impact comes from its manufacturing process rather than biodegradation concerns. The industry is developing bio-based alternatives, but current synthetic production allows for precise quality control and efficient large-scale manufacturing. Proper wastewater treatment is recommended due to its surfactant properties.

Explore Polysorbate 20

Browse essential oils and aroma compounds.

Browse on iHerb →

Affiliate disclosure: we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

References

  1. PubChem. Polysorbate 20. CID 443314
  2. Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (2006). Safety assessment of polysorbates. PMID 16835130

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.

Report a data error

Ingredient Data Sheet

CAS 9005-64-5

Odor & Flavor

“warm-oily odor or practically no odor, while The materials are viscous or very viscous they do have a bitter taste in concentrations pale yellowish or pale amber-colored liquids, exceeding 500 ppm.”📖 Arctander
Polysorbate 20 is a mixture of laurate partial esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides condensed with approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (C2H4O) for each mole of sorbitol and its mono- and dianhydrides. It has a faint, characteristic odor and a warm, somewhat bitter taste.📖 Fenaroli
Data Sources & Attribution
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.

Similar Posts