Polysorbate 80 (CAS 9005-65-6) — Citrus N/A Note Fragrance Ingredient
Polysorbate 80
CAS 9005-65-6
What Is Polysorbate 80?
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic emulsifier commonly found in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food products. It helps blend oil and water-based ingredients, ensuring smooth textures in lotions, creams, and even some processed foods. This ingredient matters because it improves product stability and consistency, making formulations more effective and pleasant to use without separating.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFEWhat Does Polysorbate 80 Smell Like?
Polysorbate 80 is nearly odorless, with a faint, slightly fatty or waxy character if smelled in pure form. It lacks the distinct top, heart, or base notes of traditional fragrance ingredients, serving primarily as a functional additive rather than an aromatic component. Its neutral profile makes it ideal for formulations where scent interference is undesirable.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Polysorbate 80 is a polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is synthesized through the ethoxylation of sorbitan monooleate, creating a molecule with both hydrophilic (polyethylene oxide) and hydrophobic (oleic acid) regions. This amphiphilic structure enables it to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions, making it invaluable in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Yellow to amber viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in water, alcohols, and oils |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cosmetics | 0.5-5% | Up to 10% | Emulsifier and stabilizer |
| Pharmaceuticals | 0.1-2% | Up to 5% | Solubilizing agent |
| Food | 0.1-1% | Up to 2% | Emulsifier and dispersant |
Classic Accords
Tip: Use Polysorbate 80 to stabilize essential oils in water-based formulations without affecting fragrance profiles.
Alternatives & Comparisons
A lighter alternative with similar emulsifying properties, often used in more delicate formulations.
A non-ethoxylated alternative for those avoiding PEG compounds, though less water-soluble.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
Not restricted by IFRA; primarily used as an emulsifier rather than a fragrance ingredient.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM considers Polysorbate 80 safe for use in cosmetics at current levels.
Sustainability
Polysorbate 80 is synthetically produced from petrochemical and plant-derived sources. While not biodegradable, its low usage levels minimize environmental impact. Efforts are underway to develop more sustainable surfactant alternatives, but Polysorbate 80 remains widely used due to its efficacy and safety profile.
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References
- PubChem. Polysorbate 80. PubChem
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2005). Final report on the safety assessment of polysorbates 20, 21, 40, 60, 61, 65, 80, 81, and 85. International Journal of Toxicology. PMID 16154915
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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