Rosewood oil (CAS 8015-77-8) — Woody Middle Note Fragrance Ingredient
Rosewood oil
CAS 8015-77-8
What Is Rosewood oil?
Rosewood oil is a natural essential oil derived from the wood of Aniba rosaeodora trees, primarily found in the Amazon rainforest. It’s commonly encountered in perfumes, soaps, and aromatherapy products. This oil matters because it’s a sustainable alternative to endangered sandalwood, offering similar woody fragrance profiles while supporting rainforest conservation efforts.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFEWhat Does Rosewood oil Smell Like?
Rosewood oil opens with a bright, fresh woody note reminiscent of sharpened pencils and damp forest floors. The heart reveals a delicate floralcy – like rose petals pressed between cedar planks. Dry-down is warm and subtly sweet, with lingering ambered wood tones that behave like fine aged liquor, becoming richer and more transparent over time.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Provides subtle woody-floral depth that bridges the aldehydic top to jasmine heart. Its transparency prevents muddiness in this complex floral bouquet.
Used alongside iris to create the signature ‘lipstick’ accord – rosewood’s soft woodiness tempers the powdery facets.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Rosewood oil is primarily composed of linalool (80-90%), a monoterpene alcohol. The oil is obtained through steam distillation of chipped wood. Sustainable production involves selective harvesting where only certain trees are cut, allowing regeneration. Chirality matters – rosewood’s linalool is predominantly (-)-linalool, giving it distinct olfactory properties from synthetic racemic mixtures.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Clear pale yellow liquid |
|---|---|
| Boiling Point | 198-200°C (linalool) |
| Density | 0.865-0.880 g/cm³ |
Key Constituent Properties
| Constituent | CAS | MW | BP °C | XLogP | Vapor P. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Linalool | 78-70-6 | 154.25 | 198°C | 2.7 | 0.16 mmHg |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 1-3% | Up to 5% | Woody-floral modifier |
| Soaps | 0.5-1% | Up to 2% | Provides lasting woody notes |
Classic Accords
Tip: Use to add dimensionality to synthetic sandalwood bases without overwhelming floral notes.
Alternatives & Comparisons
When cost is a concern, though lacks the minor constituents that give natural rosewood its complexity.
Similar linalool content but with camphoraceous notes – better for masculine fragrances.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No restrictions under IFRA 49th Amendment. Linalool content requires allergen labeling above 0.001% in leave-on products.
EU Allergen Declaration
Must be declared when linalool exceeds 0.001% in leave-on or 0.01% in rinse-off products (EU Regulation No. 1223/2009).
RIFM Assessment
RIFM assessment complete (2003). Safe at current usage levels with no sensitization concerns when properly stored.
Sustainability
Rosewood is CITES Appendix II listed. Sustainable production requires 20-30 year growth cycles. Synthetic linalool has higher carbon footprint but avoids deforestation issues. Brazilian producers now use agroforestry models combining rosewood with cocoa and açai.
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References
- Maia et al. (2001). Chemical composition of rosewood oil. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. DOI:10.1002/ffj.1050
- PubChem Linalool CID 6549
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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