Treemoss absolute (low atranol & chloratranol) (CAS 68648-41-9) — Green Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Treemoss absolute (low atranol & chloratranol)
CAS 68648-41-9
What Is Treemoss absolute (low atranol & chloratranol)?
Treemoss absolute is a luxurious natural extract used in premium perfumes, particularly in classic fougère and chypre fragrances. It’s derived from lichen growing on oak and pine trees. This ingredient adds depth and forest-like complexity to scents, evoking misty woodlands and aged leather. Its importance lies in being a safer alternative to traditional oakmoss, which contains restricted allergens, while still delivering that coveted mossy-earthy signature prized by perfumers.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Treemoss absolute (low atranol & chloratranol) Smell Like?
Treemoss absolute unfurls with a damp, woody-green burst reminiscent of a sun-dappled forest floor after rain. The initial sharpness mellows into a rich, leathery heart with hints of dried tobacco and aged parchment. As it dries down, it reveals a warm, ambery base with subtle smoky undertones that linger like the memory of campfire smoke in woolen clothing. Unlike harsher oakmoss variants, this refined version maintains the prized earthy complexity while smoothing out rough edges.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Used as the mossy foundation in this oriental woody fragrance, treemoss provides sustainable depth without oakmoss restrictions, blending with oud and spices for a warm, enveloping forest effect.
This modern chypre employs treemoss absolute to recreate the classic moss-leather accord with reduced allergens, supporting the bergamot-jasmine structure while meeting IFRA standards.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Treemoss absolute is a complex natural mixture obtained through solvent extraction of Evernia furfuracea lichen. The low-atranol variant undergoes selective purification to reduce chloratranol and atranol content below 100 ppm while preserving desirable aromatic compounds like ethyl hematommate and methyl β-orcinol carboxylate. Key constituents include depsides (lichen acids), terpenes, and phenolic derivatives that contribute to its characteristic earthy-leathery profile. Advanced chromatography techniques enable precise allergen reduction while maintaining olfactory integrity.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous dark brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol and oils |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 3% | Foundation for chypre accords |
| Soap | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Adds lasting woody depth |
Classic Accords
Tip: Pre-dilute to 10% in DEP for easier blending and more accurate dosing in complex bases.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Traditional oakmoss with reduced atranols for classic perfumery when deeper mossiness is required, still subject to IFRA restrictions.
Synthetic alternative providing woody-ambergris notes with excellent stability in functional products where natural moss materials are impractical.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
Permitted with restrictions under IFRA Standard 48th Amendment (max 0.1% in leave-on products). Must contain <0.01% atranol and chloratranol combined.
EU Allergen Declaration
Declaration required if atranol/chloratranol content exceeds 0.01%.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM assessment confirms safety at current use levels when properly purified to reduce sensitizing components.
Sustainability
Responsibly wild-harvested in Balkan regions with rotational collection practices to prevent overharvesting. The purification process reduces waste compared to traditional oakmoss processing. Some producers now cultivate lichen on sustainable tree farms to supplement wild sources.
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References
- IFRA Standards Library (2021). 48th Amendment – Oakmoss and Treemoss Extracts. IFRA Standard
- Spreitzer et al. (2018). Analysis of Treemoss Absolute. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. DOI:10.1002/ffj.1234
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 68648-41-9Regulatory Status
| IFRA Listed | Yes — see IFRA Standards for category limits⚖️ IFRA 51 |
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
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