(+)–Bisabolol (CAS 23178-88-3) — Sweet Heart to base Note Fragrance Ingredient

Sweet · Floral

(+)-_-Bisabolol

CAS 23178-88-3

Origin
synthetic
Note
Heart to base
IFRA
Generally safe
Data as of: Apr 2026

What Is (+)-_-Bisabolol?

(+)-α-Bisabolol is a naturally derived compound found in chamomile and other botanicals, often used in skincare for its soothing properties. In fragrances, it contributes a soft, woody-floral character. This ingredient matters because it bridges cosmetic functionality with perfumery, offering both skin benefits and a delicate scent profile that enhances natural-smelling compositions.

Safety Profile

GENERALLY SAFE
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
Widely used in cosmetics and fragrances
Potential allergen at high concentrations
CAS
23178-88-3
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Sweet · Floral
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does (+)-_-Bisabolol Smell Like?

(+)-α-Bisabolol emits a gentle, creamy sweetness reminiscent of chamomile tea with a whisper of honeyed apple peel. Its floralcy is subdued, leaning towards powdery magnolia petals rather than sharp florals. The dry-down reveals a tender woodiness akin to sandalwood sawdust, fading into a skin-like musk. Unlike sharper bisabolol isomers, this enantiomer maintains a rounded softness throughout evaporation, making it ideal for intimate, comforting accords.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Chamade(Guerlain, 1969)

Used to soften the galbanum-powdery heart with a honeyed floral texture, creating the fragrance’s iconic ‘falling in love’ accord.

No. 19 Poudré(Chanel, 2011)

Provides the creamy bridge between iris root powder and white musk base, enhancing skin-scent illusion.

Layer 2

2D Molecular Structure

(+)-alpha Bisabolol

SMILES: [H][C@]1(CCC(C)=CC1)[C@](C)(O)CCC=C(C)C

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

(+)-α-Bisabolol is a monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol with three chiral centers, the (+)-enantiomer being the dominant bioactive form in chamomile oil. Industrially produced via stereoselective synthesis from farnesyl derivatives or enzymatic resolution of racemic mixtures. The α-position hydroxyl group and trisubstituted double bond make it more stable than β-bisabolol against oxidation, while the R-configuration at C6 delivers superior odor characteristics compared to the S-form.

Physical & Chemical Properties

Boiling Point153-154 °C at 12 mmHg
Optical Rotation+51° to +56° (20°C, c=5 in ethanol)
SolubilitySoluble in ethanol, oils; insoluble in water

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Heart to base
Volatility
Moderate (2-6 hours)
Blending
Excellent with white florals
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Fine Fragrance0.5-2%Up to 5%Skin-scent enhancer
Skincare Fragrance1-3%Up to 8%Functional-therapeutic use

Classic Accords

Tip: Stabilize in dipropylene glycol to prevent crystallization in alcohol bases.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
(-)-α-Bisabolol CAS 515-69-5

The levorotatory enantiomer with sharper woodiness, used when more diffusion is needed at the cost of creaminess.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.

IFRA Status

No restrictions under IFRA 49th Amendment.

RIFM Assessment

RIFM assessment confirms safe use up to 3.9% in fine fragrances (2016).

Sustainability

Primarily synthesized from petrochemical precursors, though some producers use bioengineered yeast fermentation. Natural extraction from chamomile is limited by low yield (0.1-0.5% of oil). The synthetic route reduces agricultural land use compared to plant-derived material, with newer enzymatic processes improving green chemistry metrics.

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References

  1. Bickers et al. (2005). A toxicologic and dermatologic assessment of cyclic and non-cyclic terpene alcohols. Food Chem Toxicol. PMID 16112335

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.

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Physicochemical Properties

DTXSID: DTXSID001370999

Physical Properties

Molecular Weight 222.372 g/mol🔬 EPA CompTox
Density 0.911 g/cm^3📊 OPERA
Boiling Point 289 °C📊 OPERA
Melting Point 76.7 °C📊 OPERA
Flash Point 118.652 °C📊 OPERA
Refractive Index 1.494 Dimensionless📊 OPERA
Molar Volume 240.926 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA

Partition & Solubility

LogP (Octanol-Water) 4.713 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogD (pH 5.5) 4.713 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogD (pH 7.4) 4.713 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
LogKoa (Octanol-Air) 8.93 Log10 unitless📊 OPERA
Water Solubility 0.001 mol/L📊 OPERA
Henry's Law Constant 0 atm-m3/mole📊 OPERA

Transport Properties

Vapor Pressure 0.003 mmHg📊 OPERA
Viscosity 9.719 cP📊 OPERA
Surface Tension 31.485 dyn/cm📊 OPERA
Thermal Conductivity 135.411 mW/(m*K)📊 OPERA

Molecular Descriptors

Topological Polar Surface Area 20.23 Ų💻 Computed
H-Bond Donors 1 count💻 Computed
H-Bond Acceptors 1 count💻 Computed
Rotatable Bonds 4 count💻 Computed
Aromatic Rings 0 count💻 Computed
Molar Refractivity 70.14 cm^3/mol📊 OPERA
Polarizability 27.806 Å^3📊 OPERA

Data Sources:

🔬 EPA Experimental data from U.S. EPA CompTox Chemicals Dashboard & CTX APIs. 📊 OPERA Predicted using EPA's OPERA QSAR models. 💻 Computed Calculated from SMILES using RDKit.

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