Oakmoss extract (CAS 68917-10-2) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Oakmoss extract
CAS 68917-10-2
What Is Oakmoss extract?
Oakmoss extract is a natural fragrance ingredient derived from lichens found on oak trees. It’s commonly used in perfumes, especially in chypre and fougère fragrances. This ingredient matters because it adds a rich, earthy, and slightly woody depth to fragrances, creating a sense of forest-like freshness and complexity.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Oakmoss extract Smell Like?
Oakmoss extract offers a deep, earthy aroma with hints of damp forest floor and a subtle woody undertone. Its scent evolves from a fresh, green top note to a rich, mossy heart, finally settling into a warm, slightly sweet base. The dry-down is reminiscent of ancient forests after rain, with a lingering, sophisticated earthiness.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Oakmoss adds a green, earthy depth to this iconic chypre fragrance, balancing the floral and citrus notes with its rich, mossy character.
Oakmoss is key in Mitsouko’s chypre structure, providing a dark, forest-like backdrop that enhances the peach and spice notes.
Oakmoss contributes to the fresh, woody dry-down, adding a natural, earthy complexity to the citrus and herbal top notes.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Oakmoss extract is a complex mixture of lichen acids, including atranorin and chloroatranorin, which contribute to its distinctive scent. These compounds are extracted using solvents like ethanol or hexane. The extract’s composition varies depending on the lichen species and growing conditions, making each batch unique. The presence of these acids also accounts for its allergenic potential.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Dark green to brown viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, insoluble in water |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-1% | Up to 2% | Adds depth and longevity |
| Soap | 0.05-0.5% | Up to 1% | Use sparingly due to allergenic potential |
Classic Accords
Tip: Use oakmoss extract to anchor floral and citrus notes, adding a natural, earthy foundation.
Alternatives & Comparisons
A less restricted alternative with a similar earthy, woody profile but lower allergenic potential.
Offers a similar earthy depth but with a more pronounced woody and spicy character.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
IFRA restricted due to allergenic potential (Amendment 49). Maximum use level depends on product type.
EU Allergen Declaration
Oakmoss extract is listed as an allergen in the EU and must be declared on product labels.
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM has assessed oakmoss extract and recommends restricted use due to its allergenic potential.
Sustainability
Oakmoss is harvested from wild lichens, raising concerns about overharvesting. Sustainable sourcing practices are essential to protect ecosystems. Synthetic alternatives are being developed to reduce environmental impact.
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References
- IFRA Standards (Amendment 49) IFRA
- EU Cosmetics Regulation No 1223/2009 EU Regulation
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 68917-10-2Regulatory Status
| IFRA Listed | Yes — see IFRA Standards for category limits⚖️ IFRA 51 |
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
